In Tropic of Cancer we are told that Henry was treated to a bowl of mushroom soup by the Russian émigrés. But I would argue that it was most likely a mushroom broth, probably made with dried ceps.Russians do not really do pureed soups or veloutés. It’s all about the clear broth with lovely chunky bits in it. I guess it's because Slavic (especially Russian cuisine) has Eastern influences.
Clear broths and dumplings would have all travelled from China to Russia, and probably Italy too with Marco Polo...Anyway, another imperative is it must be served with lots of fresh dill and parsley on top…(never mind the piece of thyme on the lovely pic I've stolen off someone's Flikr page).
And do not forget about fresh crusty bread or lightly toasted rye bread croutons on top. (My mouth is watering). Check out my mum’s recipe and pretend you are in Paris (unless you actually are in Paris) in the 1930s, it’s winter, you are starving, and then some crazy Russian treats you to this in exchange for a couple of English lessons or you know…read Tropic of Cancer or my previous post.
Dried Mushrooms (Ceps or Mixed Forest) - 50 gr
Potato - 1
Carrot - 1
Onion - 2
Orzo (rice shaped pasta) - 30 gr
Bay leaf - 2
Butter - 10 gr
Water - 1 litre
Salt, pepper Fresh dill and parsley
If you've dried the mushrooms yourselves, soak them in cold water for 10 mins and drain the liquid in case there are little insects or grit in there. If they are bought, I usually do not bother with this step.
Simply cover your mushrooms with a litre of cold water and bring to a simmer. Add your bay leaves. After 15 minutes, peel one of the onions and add it (whole) into the broth. Then, cut your potato into small cubes and add it to the broth. Season well with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, finely chop your 2nd onion and grate the carrot. Heat the butter in a frying pan, add the onion and sweat gently for 2 minutes, allowing to colour slightly. Then add the grated carrot and sweat for another 2 minutes. Then add all this (called zazharka in Russian) to the broth. Finally, add orzo and cook until it's ready.
Serve it with plenty of dill and parsley on top, and rye bread croutons or a big slice of lovely sourdough.
Enjoy! P.S. If you have fresh mushrooms, add those to the broth along with the potatoes. You can also add a bit of crunchy bacon (just dry in the oven and cut into small cubes) and/or celery, and sour cream (smetana). I usually don't, as I just love the aroma and taste of the dried mushroom broth, especially if it's made with the darker ceps, Tête de nègre (Boletus Aereus).
The broth gets almost black and has the richest, earthiest smell, almost like truffles...Sometimes, if I feel I need a "pick-me-up", I add a few flakes of pepperoncino at the very end. Delicious.
